Improvement in hats



2 Sheets-Sheet 1.

J. THOMAS. Hat.

No. 213,008. Patented Mar. 4,187 9.

MPEYERS, FHOTO-UTHOGRAPMER, WASHINGTON, o c.

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J. THOMAS; Hat.

No. 213,008.. Patented Mar. 4,1879.

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NJ'ETERS. FHOTO-UTHOGHAFHER.'WASMINGTON a c UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE.

JAMES THOMAS, OF BOSTON, MASSACHUSETTS.

IMPROVEMENT IN HATS.

Specification forming part of Letters Patent No. 213,008, dated March 4, 1879; application filed January 8, 1879.

To all whom it may concern:

Beit known that I, J AMES THOMAS, of Boston, in the county of Suffolk and Commonwealth of Massachusetts, have invented certain new and useful Improvements in Hats, of which the following is a specification:

The invention relates to the manufacture of straw hats, but more especially to the construction and forming of Manila hats.

What improvements I have made in such forming I shall hereinafter describe and claim, as well as the improved article of manufacture thereby produced.

As hitherto made, the brims of Manila hats presented comparatively sharp edges, and although I am cognizant of several proposed methods of turning or lapping the edges, yet the hats so made still have ungainly edges, comparatively sharp, and affording the inceptive point of decay or wearing out, and do not contemplate such an invention as -mine.

My invention comprehends a circumferential tubular bead-edge, formed either from a single or double thickness of material, whereby a sharp wearing-edge is avoided, and a bracing and strengthening support obtained for the brim, and consequently for the whole hat. It also com prehends filling said tubular bead with suitable material. It also comprehends waterproofing, or rendering the brim so made stiff enough to preserve its shape from ordinary moisture, and the several novel steps in the manufacture of the hat hereinafter described.

In the accompanying drawings, Figure 1 is a view, in perspective, of my improved hat, a portion being broken away to show the bead formation; Fig. 2, a section showing the tubular bead and laps; Fig. 3, a bottom view of my hat, having parts of its under lap cut away to show that fillings for the bead may be used; Fig. 4, a perspective view of the former used in making the tubular bead, and Fig. 5 a bottom view of theiron used inpressin g over bead.

These drawings are intended to represent a Manila hat, of finely-plaited straw, made of an outer and an inner layer, or a hat within a hat.

In manufacturing thehat,usefine-braidedll/Ianila or other fine-plaited straw or analogous material. The inside layer (as I am describing a hat of two layers) may be of coarser material than the outer, and of a darker shade. In

other words, it does not require so fine a finish. After the hat is braided,-the two edges are braided, folded, or otherwise connected, makin g a perfect edge. Thus made, the hat has a straight crown, round top, and fiat brim, but is a hat in the rough only, not shaped or finished. The hat is now bleached and dried; then a light dressing of glue-water is applied and the hat dried; next dampened with clear water and put into a steam-box, where it is rendered very pliable. It is nowformed on a block of the required shape, and pressed or ironed to the same, the brim being finished out perfectly fiat next, the extreme outer edge is made uniform by turning it over a pattern of the desired size. The hat now, having been uniformed, is turned 011 a pattern having a copper-wire bead, or head of other suitable material, the solid counterpart of the tubular bead to be produced on the brim of the hat; and the hat is reversed and the edge or rim turned under, when a pressing-iron, guttered to correspond to the metallic bead in the former, is used to form the tubular bead, the pattern or former is removed, and the lap sewed down and blind-stitched. This pattern or former is shown in Fig. 4. of the drawings, and the iron in Fig. 5.

In order to prevent the presentation of a jagged edge anywhere, I previously, in lapping the two layers, cause the outer layer to lap under the inner layer before turning the brimedge, as shown in'section, Fig. 2.

The lap or turned-under portion being sewed down, as stated above, the hat is put into a shaping and finishing former (fitting up to that portion of the tubular bead facing the crown) with the crown dropping through,'and is finished from the under side into the curve shown, or in any other desirable shape.

More than one tubular supporting-bead may be formed in the brim, if desired; but for a proper esthetic effect one only should be used, and is all that I deem necessary.

The bead is made water-proof by a solution of bleached shellac applied to the outside portion of the brim. By waterproofing I do not mean such a treatment as shall render the brim proof against a drenching rain, but that the brim, which is the support of the whole hat, shall be thereby kept sufficiently stlif against ordinary dampness, fog, vapor, and light rain, and thus keep the hat in shape. The bead is tubular and integral with the material, and describes an unbroken surface from edge to crown.

I have described my preferred method of making a Manila hat; but I also make the tubular head with a suitable filling, and in Fig. 8 l have shown a hat with its tubular bead cut away at four places, to show that it may be filled with cord, straw, buckram, or rubber, or any suitable material. \Vhen a fillingis used it is laid in before the hat is pressed in the former with the wire edge, and before the lap is sewed down.

The drawings show, and this specification describes, a most elegant and serviceable hat, and such is the object of my invention, to combine beauty of design with a means of manufacture looking to its preservation.

I claim 1. As an article of manufacture, a hat of Manila or analogous material having a circum ferential tubular bead-edge to the brim.

2. In a hat of Manila or analogous material, a circumferential bead-edge to the brim filled with a suitable material, substantially as set forth.

3. In a hat of Manila or analogous material having a circumferential tubular bead-edge, the said edge and the brim waterproofed or stiffened to preservethe shape of the hat, substantially as described.

4. The method herein described of forming a circumferential tubular lapped bead upon the edge of the brim of a Manila or other hat, by means of a former provided with a metallic solid counterpart of said tubular bead, substantially as described. 9

In testimony whereof I have hereunto set my hand this 23d day of December, A. D. 1878.

JAMES THOMAS. [L. s.]

WVitnesses EDWARD H. THOMAS, N. G. MAcDoNALD. 

